Crystal And Crystal-Free
An Overview Of Microdermabrasion Agents

by Kathy Dean

There are a number of abrasive agents available for microdermabrasion machines. The most common are aluminum oxide crystals, sodium bicarbonate crystals and crystal-free aluminum oxide or diamond-encrusted surfaces.

Since 1986, aluminum oxide crystals have been used successfully for the mechanical exfoliation of skin. Aluminum oxide is mined from corundum, which is the second-hardest natural mineral, exceeded only by diamonds.

Aluminum oxide is the most commonly used abrasive for microdermabrasion. It thoroughly removes the top layer of aged, thickened and deep-pocketed skin to reveal the softer, suppler skin underneath. Aluminum oxide is an inert material and there are no adverse reactions to it. It is nontoxic for ingestion, induces no adverse skin reactions and is non-carcinogenic.

The irregular shape and hardness of aluminum oxide crystals makes the material extremely efficient for numerous skin defects. The vacuum control located on the machine determines the depth of abrasion and the rate at which crystals are pulled across the skin’s surface. When treating active acne, the jagged edges of the crystals can uproot a pustule during exfoliation. The bacteria contained within the pustule are carried along with the crystal via closed-loop vacuum into the machine’s sealed waste canister.

Introduced as an organic alternative to aluminum oxide crystal, sodium bicarbonate simply is medical-grade baking soda. These crystals are softer than aluminum oxide and because they have fewer facets or edges, they are a less effective exfoliant. Skin types that are prone to hyperpigmentation may benefit from the mild exfoliation of these crystals, as they are alkaline with a natural pH balance. The crystals are water-soluble and washed off skin easily. However, sodium bicarbonate absorbs ambient moisture and is more prone to clumping and clogging. It is not recommended for use in a humid environment.

The most recent innovation in microdermabrasion is the introduction of crystal-free media. Disposable aluminum oxide crystal-free tips and reusable diamond-encrusted wands were developed as a crystal alternative. Particle (grit) size of the surface area and vacuum pressure generated from the microdermabrasion machine work together to determine the degree of exfoliation as the vacuum pressure pulls skin against the abrasive surface. Larger particle sizes and higher vacuum levels produce more abrasion. As skin is abraded, exfoliated tissue is vacuumed away into a disposable waste filter.

Some of the exfoliated skin and bacteria will embed within the surface area of the crystal-free media during a treatment and can be spread to other areas of the face and body. The operator must use disposable crystal-free tips or proper sanitation and autoclave sterilization with reusable instrumentation to eliminate the potential for biohazard cross-contamination. Crystal-free microdermabrasion is not as effective for pocked areas or scar tissue since there are no flowing crystals available to abrade irregular surface areas.

All of the abrasives follow the same microdermabrasion principle—to progressively exfoliate skin to enhance penetration of cosmeceuticals and to initiate new cell growth with no downtime. By utilizing a system with crystal and crystal-free media, the operator can customize microdermabrasion procedures to fit each client’s skin-resurfacing needs.

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