Beauty From Nature
Looking Beyond The Label

by Mandy Kraynik

There are a number of attributes to look for in natural beauty products on the market today that provide consumers with natural, potent benefits that can be seen and felt. When choosing products, one must consider which ingredients are used, how they are processed, their particular delivery system and their effectiveness.

The first and most-important characteristic to consider when choosing natural beauty products is the ingredients. One of the most important for the skin is essential fatty acids. It has been determined that, like many other tissues, developing skin cells extract essential fats from the bloodstream and convert them into mini-hormones known as prostaglandins. Research has shown that different types of unsaturated fats are used by skin cells to make different types of prostaglandin hormones. For instance, prostaglandin series-2 makes the skin dry, rough and/or scaly, whereas prostaglandin series-1 and series-3 make the skin soft, smooth and moist.

The key building block for PG-1 is gamma linolenic acid (GLA), an unsaturated fat found in high concentrations in borage oil. GLA also can be formed in the body from linoleic acid, but individuals with certain conditions (diabetes, eczema) have been shown to have a defect in the enzyme that converts linoleic acid to GLA (delta-6 desaturase enzyme). Moreover, consumption of alcohol, refined sugars and hydrogenated fats tends to inhibit the conversion of linoleic acid to GLA.

The aging process also slows the conversion of linoleic acid to GLA as the delta-6 desaturase enzyme becomes more sluggish. As such, most if not all individuals have suboptimal cellmembrane concentrations of GLA.

Consequently, GLA supplementation (e.g., borage oil) has been shown to improve skin texture and various skin conditions (eczema) in human studies via its conversion to PG-1 within epidermal cells. Also, suboptimal intake of vitamin B6, zinc and magnesium, which is common, slows the conversion of linoleic acid to GLA, as these nutrients act as coenzymes in this biochemical reaction.

Another unique and potent source of essential fatty acids is Chilean musk rose oil (Rosa rubiginosa). It contains linoleic acid (45 percent), linolenic acid (32 percent) and oleic acid (15 percent). In addition to these naturally occurring essential fatty acids, Chilean musk rose oil also contains carotenoids, flavonoids, vitamin C and trans-retinoic acid that all contribute to its pharmacological and therapeutic properties. Ingredients providing naturally occurring antioxidants that fight free-radical production and those that provide anti-inflammatory properties also are important. Finding a product with a combination of the above ingredients would provide a powerful and essential regimen for healthy, vibrant skin.

Processing

The second aspect to consider when deciding on natural beauty products is how those important ingredients are processed. As noted above, there are natural oils that provide very important components; however, they are only present if the oil is processed properly. Look for oils that are processed in a way that is free from any chemicals or excessive heat, thus preserving the oils’ natural components as well as the highly concentrated fatty acid content.

For example, cold-pressed or expeller-pressed oils are processed via a chemical-free mechanical process that extracts oil from seeds or nuts. Many conventional oils are extracted via a solvent-based method such as hexane. The difference between cold pressed and expeller pressed is the temperature.

Delicate oils such as borage oil require the expeller-pressed process to occur in a heat-controlled environment (below 120 F) to ensure key compounds are preserved. It’s important to note that, while Europe has rigorous standards in place for the terminology of cold-pressing (fully unrefined oil extracted at temperatures below 122 F), the phrase “cold pressed” has been used erroneously in the United States for a number of years, often employed as a marketing technique for oils that have been expeller-pressed or even refined (which exposes the oil to temperatures of up to 470 F).

Delivery

The third attribute is a delivery system that allows for the elimination of additives and chemicals needed to preserve the active ingredients. There are a few companies that utilize a unique single-use bead that contains the exact amount needed for each application, protecting the actives that are present in each bead.

This unique delivery only supplies the amount needed, ensuring every application is providing 100-percent active ingredients. Not only does it ensure the actives are present in every use, but it makes application and use convenient, since one application can be carried at a time rather than an entire jar or bottle.

Effectiveness

Finally, a very important quality to look for is the ability of the product to provide evidence of its effectiveness. Very few products are able to provide clinical proof (in humans) of their claims. Some products’ claims may refer to clinical work done on individual ingredients that many times are not the same form of the ingredient utilized in the formulation. This can be valid substantiation for the ingredients; however, unique formulations also should have evidence supported by valid science that the specific combination of ingredients is safe and efficacious.

The visual effects some products provide may only last until the product is discontinued. There are products available that provide what the skin needs most to actually rebalance, restore and replenish skin cells by restoring the fatty acid content of the skin. These are the types of products one may want to include as part of a daily regimen.

The Whole Picture

In conclusion, it is important to look for products that provide only those ingredients that provide benefit and are carefully processed to ensure the active ingredients are included as promised.

Choosing products that contain essential fatty acids is important to support the production of those hormones critical to soft, smooth skin. Make sure the product does not contain ingredients that can strip the skin of its natural protective oils, further damaging skin and leading to wrinkles and fine lines rather than diminishing them and protecting skin. Carefully select the delivery form, as this can be crucial to ensuring the therapeutic active ingredients are received in every use. And finally, an individual can decide if the visual effects a product provides are sufficient, or seek out clinical evidence that supports the claims on the product labels.

By carefully considering these points, one can be sure to choose a product that is safe, healthy and effective.

References

1. Dr. A.J. Dekker-Saeys, Thalassotherapie {article on-line} (accessed 13 March 2005); available from www.arteche,nl/thalasso.htm; Internet.

2. BIOMARIS BREMEN, WARENKUNDE: English version, Chapters 4, 5, 7, 15.

SPA 20/20® gets feedback on the natural-beauty category

Q: When speaking of beauty-care products, what does “natural” really mean?

A: “The idea of ‘natural’ could mean a product containing all-natural ingredients; however, I believe there should be a more significant meaning to the idea. I think the natural course to attaining beauty is a healthier and potentially more lasting one than with the use of harsh or radical treatments such as Botox, face lifts and peeling. The ‘natural’ idea would be to support the living and natural cells of our skin with nutrients that could support such things as the body’s natural ability to retain moisture, to support natural collagen development, or to reduce hyperpigmentation. This way, by supporting the natural health of the skin, I believe the cumulative effect would be to develop healthier skin as both the path to and result of beauty.”

A: “We prefer not to use the word ‘natural’ in our literature, because it has become devoid of meaning. We use ‘pure, organically grown botanicals’ to describe the ingredients in Novaurora products. We also use the term ‘body-friendly’ to describe the gentle way these products work with the human body. Many plant-derived ingredients are not especially beneficial to the body: SLS may be derived from coconut, but it can cause skin irritations; beeswax is pure and unadulterated, but when applied heavily to the skin it keeps the skin from breathing and may make it sag from the extra weight.”

—Pamela Lambert, founder and owner, Aurora Nova LLC dba Novaurora Organic Skin Care

Q: Why should a spa incorporate natural beauty products into its services?

A: “Many spa clients are on vacation while having spa services done. The thought of being on vacation and having an allergic reaction or a very red face is enough of a reason to not have any facial done. If the spa offers food-grade natural products or services, the allergic thought does not even happen. Who could turn away from a strawberry cream mask or an aloe-and-herb body wrap or an egg-and-honey mask or a papaya enzyme facial?”

A: “Natural beauty products, especially those that contain essential oils, produce the greatest results without compromising the skin. Because of their potency and effectiveness, no spa should be without them. Natural products represent the best alternative to pharmaceutical cosmetics. Customers feel confident using a natural product on their skin.”

A: “Consumers are much more aware today, reading labels and watching how products of all kinds affect their health. Personal-care products have long been ignored as a potential health risk until recent studies revealed how many of the ingredients in our spa and beauty products are harming us. When we provide our clients products with ingredients that are pure and natural, benefiting them from the outside in, we do a true service for the industry. This industry is a multibillion-dollar business, and your clients are educating themselves—so making the change to purity while indulging is the best thing a spa owner could do for his or her business.”

A: “From a business perspective, to expand services offered and to create a niche in positioning the spa’s brand specialty within the industry. From a personal perspective, we were brought up on holistic applications and we know that natural is just an excellent alternative. Just as we have different meal options on a restaurant menu, or we frequent grocers that may have raised their goods in their own backyard, there is a certain appeal to a good, wholesome variety of services in a spa menu. A spa is to offer a sanctuary, and offer wellness to the body and a recalibration to the mind. If the spa owner offers natural products and services on the menu, the spa is advancing its commitment to respond to the emerging needs of the natural-product-seeking client and is being truer to the spa philosophy.”

Q: What type of spa client is looking for “natural” alternatives in skincare?

A: “We find the clients most likely to request or prefer natural products are those who are educated regarding the benefits of such products. These clients care for not only their appearance, but for their overall health and well-being.”

A: “Clients are demanding natural ingredients now more than ever. Clients are educated on natural products and are looking for an alternative to prescriptions and medical.”

Click here to purchase reprints