The Non-Invasive Future Of Skincare

by David Suzuki

Non-Invasive: not involving penetration (as by surgery or hypodermic needle) of the skin of the intact organism. This definition seems to be taking the nation by storm, but what does it really mean, and what impact does it have, if any, on our industry?

No more than 10 years ago, non-invasive treatments and natural alternatives were lumped in the category of “snake oil.” Today, it seems that a person cannot walk more than a block without passing an acupuncture clinic, anti-aging specialist and a half-dozen yoga studios. In many parts of the world, non-invasive or natural remedies historically have been used more so than not. Americans, however, are very different in this respect, and it has been only recently that we truly have embraced and respected the genuine potential and power of non-invasive and natural alternatives.

The Journal of the American Medical Association reports a 47.3-percent increase in the demand for alternative remedies between 1990 and 1997, and estimates that more than 42 percent of Americans today use alternative methods to address their health and wellness concerns. Statistics also indicate that more than 60 percent of doctors recommend alternative therapies, and 47 percent use alternative therapies themselves.

With the latest developments and advances in technology and wellness, Americans also are enjoying a much longer and active life, which also involves a certain amount of vanity. In 2003, the American Society for Aesthetic Plastic Surgery noted nearly 7 million non-invasive cosmetic procedures performed compared to barely 1 million in 1997, equating to a whopping 700-percent increase.

Non-invasive procedures include microcurrent facial toning, oxygen infusion, microdermabrasion and LED light therapy.

In addition to this dramatic change in the way that Americans prefer to be treated, we also have begun to finally realize that good health and wellness is a concept, an ideal, a lifestyle. What this means in tangible terms is that Americans are on the cusp of understanding that that there is not just one miracle product or treatment, and now are open to an entire array of synergetic methods to achieve their goal of longevity and maximum quality of life.

Although the American train of thought regarding wellness has evolved over the years, the extreme nature of our culture cannot be swept under the carpet and forgotten. In reality, many cultures relied on what are commonly referred to as “alternative” remedies, simply due to the lack of ingenuity to develop modern technology. The forte and demand of the American culture is quick, immediate and effective. In esthetics, a beautiful balance of wellness has been achieved through noninvasive anti-aging devices that really work in harmony with body—the best of both worlds.

One modality that seems to be at the forefront of this balance is microcurrent. Microcurrent is a low level of electrical current used to improve the appearance of skin and the contour of the face and body. With this in mind, it meets the scope of nearly every state regulating board’s definition of esthetics.

True microcurrent works at less than 400 microamperes of electrical current and has no relation to electrical muscle stimulation that causes a visual or physical manipulation of the muscle via the electrical current. Microcurrent works in harmony with the body’s own natural electrical system and, in a nutshell, accelerates the body’s ability to function much more effectively and expeditiously. The wellness applications and possibilities of microcurrent seem endless and truly are amazing, ranging from wound healing to macular degeneration.

During a typical microcurrent esthetic treatment, the esthetician performs a series of manipulations to achieve what sometimes is referred to as muscle re-education, or lengthening and shortening, which is responsible for the contouring or lifting portion of the treatment. Results usually can be seen after the first application.

“Before I began working with microcurrent, I was really not an avid device user,” says Monica Leedom of Totally You Day Spa in Leesburg, Fla. “I reviewed many different equipment manufacturers before I found the right technology and company who really knew their science, made education a priority and had patents that could establish them as exclusive and original. I also needed a device that produced rapid, consistent results with longevity. Microcurrent fit the bill.”

The second portion of the treatment is focused on skin, improving blood circulation, product penetration, and increasing the body’s natural production of collagen and elastin, the most integral two components of supple, firm, youthful skin. Recent studies at the University of Washington indicate that skin treated with microcurrent showed a 14-percent increase of natural collagen production, a 48-percent increase in elastin and a 39-percent increase of blood circulation—all inside of a 20-day time period.

“The retonification of facial muscles using microcurrent results from accelerated ATP [adenosine triphosphate] generation along with increased production of collagen and elastin,” says Dr. Robert Loss of Dermatology Associates of Rochester (N.Y.). “Unlike Thermage, the results are very immediate, the process completely safe and painless, and the cost for the consumer very low comparatively.”

Oxygen Infusion

Oxygen infusion is another hot topic in today’s non-invasive anti-aging world. Oxygen infusion assists in product penetration by applying purified, pressurized oxygen to skin via probe-like handpieces sometimes referred to as oxy-jets. Most devices also come equipped with “oxydomes,” which are plastic masks that encapsulate the entire face allowing for hands-free oxygen product infusion, and oxygen wands that allow the skin therapist to apply a pressurized mist of strategic product to the surface of the skin.

The product usage and protocols used with oxygen-infusion devices seem to be for very specific applications and concerns. For example, some companies are utilizing serums and creams containing acetyl hexapeptide 3, used as a topical alternative to Botox®, to address expression aging. Percentages of acetyl hexapeptide 3 range from 5 percent to 15 percent depending on the manufacturer, and the percentage strength is directly related to the relaxing results.

Other products that are heavy in hyaluronic acid, vitamins, collagen and elastin all seem to be very popular and effective for plumping and firming fine lines and wrinkles. Specialty presaturated masks for treatments such as acne also are said to be very effective with this technology and used commonly with the oxy-dome-type accessory.

“Oxygen infusion has been the best new device to enter the market since microcurrent and microdermabrasion,” says Eliza Gooler of Eliza’s European Skin Care in Gig Harbor, Wash. “It is truly a powerful treatment that is fantastic as a stand-alone as well as an add-on service. The results are absolutely amazing when combined with microcurrent treatments, and consumer attraction to this type of modality is immediate.”

Microdermabrasion

A near tradition for American estheticians, microdermabrasion remains a fantastic treatment and revenue source. The treatment also meets the criterion of non-invasive and anti-aging head-on. Microdermabrasion remains the primary modality available to the esthetician that allows a mechanical exfoliation of the top layer of the skin, reducing the appearance of aged, thickened and congested skin while encouraging the growth of new softer, more supple skin. The vacuum stimulation also is integral in stimulating blood circulation and new collagen production.

Microdermabrasion is a fantastic combination treatment for both microcurrent and oxygen infusion, as all modalities are working toward a common goal.

LED Light Therapy

Light-emitting diodes (LEDs), often referred to as light therapy and known for glowing red lights, has been a very interesting and beneficial modality for estheticians. It completely is noninvasive, with the average device working with less intensity than that of a 25-watt light bulb. Unlike laser technology that essentially creates heat energy, LED triggers the body to convert light energy into cell energy without thermal injury.

LED therapy is known for its ability to stimulate circulatory and fibroblastic activity, creating new collagen and leading to a firmer appearance and better-looking skin texture. The improvement of the texture and appearance of skin can be seen after the first few treatments. However, as with most collagen-producing treatments, diminishing the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles takes some time to realize and is very gradual, making dramatic, rapid improvements difficult to capture in many cases.

LED is a fantastic accent treatment as well as a great add-on service to any anti-aging facial. LED is especially strong when mixed with microcurrent and microdermabrasion, and should be performed in a series of four to eight treatments.

Education And States Grasp Non-Invasive

It is not just the industry that is realizing this change in the American psyche; the world of education also is adapting and quickly incorporating modern noninvasive technology to its curriculum.

One of the most progressive sources for advanced education, the International Dermal Institute, has incorporated microcurrent into its technology curriculum for the latter part of 2005.

“Microcurrent is among the most important new efficacious technologies available for skin therapists, and will play a vital role in their future,” says Annet King, director of training and development for the International Dermal Institute. “It is important that skin therapists are well educated and informed on all aspects of available technology, including the specific differences and benefits.”

Because of what industry experts estimate as more than a 400-percent increase in modality usage within esthetics over the last four years, the state boards also have had to kick their codes of regulations into high gear to better define what falls within the scope of esthetics. Both Ohio and Colorado are in the process of modifying their code of regulations to incorporate specific device usage—as long as devices meet all federal and state regulations including FDA registration of the device and the manufacturer, UL safety testing and certification, and the manufacturer’s proof of product-liability insurance. Most other states are following this lead with similar modifications.

The National Coalition of Esthetic and Related Associations has created the Esthetic Equipment Registry database, which is accessible at www.ncea.tv. This database allows estheticians quick access to vendor information so they can easily pre-qualify a manufacturer prior to making their purchase as well as ensure that the type of technology they are considering has an intended use within the realm of esthetics.

The age of natural, non-invasive antiaging, wellness, longevity, vanity and maximum quality of life are in full swing in American society. In true American style, the fastest, most expedient route to achieve this new reality has been established via non-invasive devices. While the devices definitely are cutting edge, they also maintain optimum harmony with the natural functions and beauty of the human body.

There is no question about the impact that technological advances have had on society, and the direct impact these advances have had on the industry. Noninvasive anti-aging services quickly are becoming the epicenter of most skincare practices, and expected by today’s savvy customer.

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