Restoring Youth
Non-Invasive Facial Services
by Matt Morgan
 Clients come to spas to feel better
and look better—but not everyone wants to go under the knife in order to erase
years off his or her face. In years past, even non-surgical facial treatments
were painful and required days of downtime. Not any more. Thanks to new
technology, individuals can receive a non-invasive or non-ablative facial
treatment on their lunch break. Combined with a complementary homecare regimen, these services
finally can satisfy their lust for youth.
Invasive treatments such as chemical peels or cosmetic surgery
may seem like the only alternative for someone who desires younger-looking and
blemish-free skin. Such treatments have their place, but they’re not for
everyone.
Now, many of the benefits of invasive procedures can be had
with the non-invasive and non-ablative kind.
“The public wants pain-free, low-risk results and the
practitioner wants high efficacy with low liability,” says Steve Davis, one of
the founders of PhotoActif.
A handful of services available to aestheticians and medical
spas offer the best of both worlds. Advances in non-invasive facial treatments have made the
services popular in spas around the country.
Many procedures are done in 20 to 40 minutes, and
manufacturers of non-invasive machines recommend about six sessions—10 to 14
days apart—to see results.
“We like to allow time for the cells to rejuvenate,” says
Barbara Leonardi, vice president of Skincare Technology, Inc. “Not everyone
heals at the same rate. Some people require three treatments, some people
require eight. It all depends on the damage and skin type.”
Because of the short treatment time and lack of need for
recovery, many non-invasive procedures can be performed over a person’s lunch
break.
“Microdermabrasion and cold laser therapy really have no
down time,” says Melinda Minton, executive director of The Spa Association.
“With various IPLs, there may be a day to get over the redness, and this
really depends on the strength of the treatment and how sensitive the person’s
skin is. Compare that to a week’s worth of recovery for multilayer Jessner’s
peels, and you understand why this is such a popular trend.”
The process of microdermabrasion exfoliates and polishes the
surface layer of skin. Miniature crystals are moved over the skin by a handheld
device that attaches to the skin with suction. Used crystals and skin cells are
gently sucked away, helping to diminish the appearance of aging, sun damage and
other facial imperfections.
Cold laser therapy, also referred to as low-level laser
therapy (LLLT), uses light energy to penetrate the skin’s surface and increase
cellular metabolism. Tissue is not damaged. LLLT has applications in relieving
dental problems, musculoskeletal disorders and carpel tunnel syndrome; the
practice also is popular in sports arenas and even used on horses. However, cold
laser therapy’s ability to reduce pain and swelling and decrease scar tissue
has made it attractive for use on the human face.
Other Non-Ablative Modalities
Two main methods of non-ablative treatments use differing
forms of light: photomodulation and photorejuvenation.
Photomodulation activates skin cells with pulses of low-level,
non-thermal light energy from light-emitting diodes (LEDs), Minton says. A recent clinical trial showed this procedure to reduce
wrinkles, redness and pore size around the eyes. LED therapy incorporates
several colors of light: Blue has been proven to help combat bacteria and treat
acne as well as help in wound healing; red is used in anti-aging and
skin-rejuvenation applications; amber light is used to aid muscle soreness.
“With LED treatments, you are simply giving the face a ‘light
bath,’” Davis says. “Think of it as photo-nutrition. The cells respond to
the photons as nutrients and use the energy generated to assist in repairing
themselves.”
LED therapy also can be used to calm the skin following other
services such as microdermabrasion. “LED is great to finish off a client’s
anti-aging type of skin treatment,” says Annet King, director of curriculum at
the International Dermal Institute. “That’s why it’s popular with skin
therapists. You can do your whole treatment for them—you can do your
hydroxy-acid, vitamin-based exfoliation, you can do a massage—and then you can
finish it off with an LED treatment.”
Photorejuvenation uses intense pulsed light (IPL) of red and
infrared lengths to induce skin healing. This type of treatment penetrates to
the dermis to help repair collagen there while erasing a number of skin
conditions and signs of aging on the surface.
Another method on the market is ultrasonic technology, which
blends the benefits of several different treatment methods. “You can treat
just about any skin condition with that unit,” says Lisa Travis, manager of
SpaMD, the medical-spa division of Universal Companies. “It has four different
modes. You get something similar to microdermabrasion using radio frequency.”
This technology performs 1) deep cleansing; 2) scaling, similar to
microdermabrasion; 3) ionphoresis, which combines a galvanic current used for
many years with sonophoresis to penetrate any number of topical applications
into skin; and 4) lifting, similar to microcurrent lifting but with
different technology.
Microcurrent facials use a handheld device to emit low-level
electric current to stimulate the skin and jump-start the production of
fibroblasts. It is designed to increase blood circulation and production of
collagen, elastin and ATP (adenosine triphosphate).
Factors To Consider
When selecting the type and brand of equipment, it is
essential to investigate, Minton says. “It is important to know the history of
the company,” she says. “Have they done studies to prove effectiveness of
their equipment? Do they have references? How long has the equipment been out? Do they offer
complimentary training? What kind of professional and product liability
insurance do they offer? As a purchaser of their equipment, does the insurance
extend to the end user?”
Spas should look for systems that produce results, Davis says.
“Ask for evidence that the system can perform according to the sales pitch,”
he says. “Ask for some sort of money-back guarantee based on results.”
If it’s possible, have staff try out the product. “Call
spas that are using the equipment or products and ask them to tell you how their
experience has been,” Minton continues.
As safe as non-invasive treatments may be, many potential
clients still fear the worst— pain, redness, oozing and peeling associated
with ablative procedures of the past.
“The opposite of non-invasive is surgery—and that scares a
lot of people,” Minton says. “Further, understand that this is a whole new
world, post CO2 lasers, TCA peels and deep chemical peels. Such procedures
worked but took a great deal of judgment, precision and talent on the part of
the surgeon or technician. Furthermore, these procedures left the client looking
like a burn victim for a week or two. With CO2 lasers and TCA peels, there was a further risk of infection
and uneven skin tone as well as later hyperpigmentation.”
The above side effects rarely if ever exist with non-invasive
procedures. An educated technician can allay these concerns in a few minutes by
explaining what is to be done. Because these treatments are cosmetic in nature, many do not
require licenses to operate. All that is required of the technician is a grasp
of how to effectively operate the machine. “Also, they need to understand the
protocols and be able to identify the clients that have the greatest chance for
success,” Davis explains.
Companies such as Skincare Technology provide a training video
and manual with the machine. “It’s easy to administer,” Leonardi says. “It’s all about the power of light and the
penetration of light through the skin.”
Another company, Dynatronics, believes so strongly in product
training that it won’t even warranty its equipment until a technician
completes the company’s two-day training course. Attendees are taught why the
process works, how to properly deliver the technique and how to market the
service.
“There are three states now that won’t even let
aestheticians do microdermabrasion,” says Karen Chaus, Dynatronics’ training director. “We feel
like if we don’t teach these aestheticians to be responsible and learn how to
do this right, it’s going to be taken out of their hands. We don’t want
that.”
Homecare Is Key
Topical formulations can be used before, during and after
non-invasive treatments. Products used beforehand prepare skin to best receive the
treatment. Those used afterward are designed to prolong and enhance results.
Products used during treatment should come at the manufacturer’s
recommendations; some suggest the use of topical products, while others do not.
“Topical retinoids, antioxidants and hydroxy acids are an
integral part of the treatments,” Davis says. “Light alone has some
limitations. LEDs have not shown clinically any effects on melanocytes; but
retinoids, kojic acid, hydroquinone and lactic acid—with proper training—can
be very effective in combination with LEDs to treat hyperpigmentation.”
When deciding which brands to carry, spa professionals should
seek out products that have actual medical validation, says Jan Marini,
president and CEO of Jan Marini Skin Research, Inc. “It can’t just be
opinion or manufacturer statements and claims, but actual medical studies and
hard data that provide real medical validation. They should look for retinol,
lipid-soluble C, kojic acid, a combination including glycolic, salicylic and
azelaic acids, and pentapeptides, just to name a few.”
Some of the most important steps in non-invasive facial
treatments happen after clients leave the spa. In fact, homecare is so vital to
the process that many spas require homecare
as part of a series of non-invasive treatments, Minton says.
Travis puts it plainly: “You might as well not even go to a
spa or get a treatment if you’re not going to continue that regime at home,”
she says.
Some spas are in such a rush to sell the treatment that they
neglect to stress the importance of skincare before and after, Marini says. The
facilities that realize this make sure to sit down with potential clients and
explain the benefits of homecare.
“Before any procedure, there should be a focused
consultation to determine what the client hopes to address and how he or she
should prepare the skin prior to the procedure,” she says. “This discussion
should also include how the client can maintain and enhance the results of the
procedures and treatments with a comprehensive homecare regimen. The provider
should explain what the client can realistically hope to achieve as well as the
importance of using the appropriate homecare system.”
To make it easy on the end user, Universal Companies has put
together what it calls Success Kits, which packages complementary products that
are used to best treat a specified condition.
Clients who are happy with their product purchase—meaning
they see results—are likely to come in to buy other retail products. In the
best case, long-term customers easily could spend more on product after their
original treatment than what they spent on the treatment, Marini says.
Non-invasive procedures are quick and relatively pain-free for
clients, who leave spas looking better. Spas can capture a piece of the growing
anti-aging market with relatively risk-free technology. Everyone feels better.
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